How to repair denim: jean jacket collar repair


A cherished denim jacket

One challenge about documenting my work is well...documenting my work. I wish I had made a video of how I repaired this denim jacket. I didn't. I feel like I have more critical thought when I'm filming myself, so I just got to work and didn't record. I also find setting up the camera with different shots challenging. It seems like that part gets in the way of actually working. I'd like to change that, but it's where I am right now.

I will now retroactively describe this denim jacket repair.

[Writing this up now, even a couple of weeks later, I know I did some of these steps in a different order. For example, after step 4 I realized the back logo would be in the way of sewing the patch down so I seam ripped it. I'm hoping that if I have a similar repair in the future I can refer back to these steps.]

1. Seam rip along the collar a little bit beyond the hole.

2. Seam rip the logo label on the top 3 sides. I didn't seam rip the whole label because I wanted to make sure I put it back in the same spot.

3. Machine darn with white thread, vertical stitches that connect the collar and body of the jacket. The hole was smaller than it looked. When I darned this area it ended up closing the gap. (I'm shaking my head at myself for not photographing this).

4. Sewed the collar back to the body of the jacket. I used a thicker thread similar to the original garment. It wasn't a complete match, but still pretty close.

5. I cut out the patterned fabric, making sure it extended beyond the hole.

6. I can't remember now if I machine darned over the patch or sewed the perimeter with a zig zag stitch first. I think I did a little of both. I had to reinforce a few areas with the green thread so I know I finished sewing the patch that way. I had two different sewing machines set up so it was easy to go back and forth. The white stitches were done with my industrial straight stitch. The green and brown stitches were done with my home sewing machine.

7. At this point I could tell where the logo patch would be placed even if I removed all of the stitches. I wanted to use the same thread for the whole perimeter, so I seam ripped the whole patch and then reattached it with brown thread. The spool I have is unlabeled, but I believe it's a nylon thread used for top stitching. I used a longer stitch length (I think 4mm) to re-attach the label.

What the client requested: If available, I like 70s inspired colors, and this was my dad's jacket so it would be fitting!

Their response after receiving the jacket: "I don't know what I expected but it's even prettier than what I could have imagined. It's a sentimental piece as well, thank you for making it even more special. I would love it to cool down so I can wear it!"

Don't want to DIY and looking for a similar repair? We do custom clothing repairs. Mail-in or drop off in the Chicago neighborhood of Andersonville (exact location given once we've accepted the repair). Start your repair request here


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